Monday, 22 September 2008

Africa – 22nd Sept 2008 – Day 21

Today began with the alarm beeping at 6.10am. We washed and dressed quickly, meeting another Swiss couple for a cup of tea and coffee before beginning our morning walk with our guide.

The five of us set off across the huge granite outcrops that give this area such a unique vista. Much of the walk was spent either climbing up or down the granite outcrops. It was quite a work out and luckily, John’s back seemed a little less stiff.

We came across various antelopes and small cuddly critters, plus a family of Dik Dik. These are the smallest antelopes of all and very cute indeed.

The arrived back at the lodge three hours later, hot and ready for breakfast. They make great fruit juice here, including Orange and Strawberry.

We then chilled out around the pool for most of the day, photographing the brightly coloured lizards and birds who visit from time to time. We sat with another couple from England, but they are the quietest people on the planet. We have not said a word to each other all day!!

Africa – 21st Sept 2008 – Day 20

Today began with a nice lay in and a relaxing breakfast with a difference. Jan served us all with a glass of bubbly so we could all toast a warm congratulation to a German couple were at the lodge with their son and his boyfriend. Today was their 50th wedding anniversary. We toasted their longevity. Suddenly this wonderful African singing began and all the staff came into the lounge and entertained us for 20 minutes. At the end they sung this wonderful, uplifting song, and filed passed the German couple hugging then. It all got very emotional and most of us were “filling up” by the end.

After breakfast, we settled the bill, said our goodbyes to everyone and hit the road. Our journey today is too the Erongo mountains, where we are staying at the Erongo Wilderness Lodge (see: www.erongowilderness.com).

The drive was very nice, ever changing scenery, with larger mountains than we have been used too in Africa. We stopped at a town called Uai, had a cuppa and shared a muffin and toasted sandwich from Vicky’s CafĂ©. John thought is was OK, Fiona was not so impressed. We travelled onwards, passing many brightly dressed ladies, trying to sell us dolls. We resisted as the dolls looked rubbish!! However, we passed a group of three children who indicated that they had run out of water. We turned the car around as we had a spare bottle of water. When we stopped to give them the bottle that also said they were very hungry. We had nothing to give them, but they were pleased about the water. One of them only looked about three years old. It’s a very harsh country. Us with our money and them with nothing. Sad!!

We reached the lodge at 3.30pm, feeling tired and relieved to be at our next base. The owners met us and were great. Our tent is very good, with a great bathroom. The landscape is wonderful with huge rock outcrops. Very different to the scrub and sand we have been used too. We just relaxed around the pool area which has wonderful views from the top deck.

John managed to contact his parents. Unfortunately, his father is still in great pain with his hand and wrist. Currently the NHS seem unable to diagnose the problem. The pain relief medication is making his feel very poorly.

Tonight we had a very good meal indeed. Due to our travel company making some errors, they had arranged for us to have a complimentary bottle of wine and a free game drive. We had a lovely bottle of un oaked Chardonnay tonight. All the better for being on our tour operator.

During the meal, some large porcupines joined us for a wee while and earlier was was a family of giant guinea pigs and a family of four wart hogs. Fiona has spied a wart hog carving that will probably end up back at Chaddleworth!!

We are currently sitting on our balcony looking at the stars and sending John’s Dad positive vibes!

Africa – 20th Sept 2008 – Day 19

We had arranged with Ben our guide that we would do a long morning walk starting at 09:00. We went down to breakfast at 08:00 and thankfully John was feeling back to his old self.

Again breakfast was up there as the best so far, lots of variety.

We met Ben at 09:00 to start the walk, however whilst John’s tummy was better he had bent down to pick up a bottle of water and pulled his back !!!. We started our walk anyway with John bent over a bit but keeping up. Two of the dogs came along with us Eli and Mafi, they can sense if there is any danger out there so it was good to have them along.

The objective of the walk was to track down the mountain Zebra, we walked along tracks and through tall grass land but found no Zebra, just a couple of Oryx and Coudoo. When we started it was quiet cool but by about 11:00 it was stifling. We stopped at a large rock outcrop for 10 mins to recover. The dogs were really tired especially Eli, we shared our water with her.

After the stop we headed back to the lodge but the grass was so long that poor Eli was really struggling. Ben picked her up and carried her back to the lodge which she seemed to appreciate.

Once back at the lodge we went back to the room to have shower to cool down before lunch and right behind us was Eli. She came into our Bungalow and chilled on the cool floor, we can’t tell Heather this as she will be very angry with us, but we got it on film.

Lunch as again really good and we met the Suzi who is Jens wife again perfect English. During Lunch we had a call from the local Audley agent (he had been trying to get us for 2 days). He had a call from Audley as a result of the email we sent re our waterburg plateau lodge experience and has offered us free wine at the next lodge and a free game drive. However John is holding out for something more substantial. Later on we logged on to our email, Audley have apologized for the Waterberg stay and have offered us a full refund for that part of the holiday.

After we had both booked in for a message with Melanie. Fiona went first, we had booked a head, face and neck message for 45 mins. Whilst in the massage parlor, John relaxed by the lovely cool pool. The bright red dragon flies darted about the place, diving down for a drink every now and again. John also went down to the natural hot pools, alternating between the hot and cold stone baths in order to relax his lower back. The hot spring area is great, with a large thatched roof, hammock chairs, sumptuous sun beds and a wonderful vista. The massage turned out to be absolutely brilliant, she is one of the best masseurs we have come across. She has trained in several countries like India and Thailand. She also worked on John’s bad back, so here’s hoping it gets better soon.

The rest of the afternoon was spent round the lovely pool and thermal spring baths. We met with a nice couple of ladies from the UK who live together near Kingston. They were on a three week Africa trip, also arranged with Audley.

We like Huab Lodge very much and wish we were staying another day, it couldn’t be more different to the first lodge, even though most of the clients are German everyone makes an effort and you never feel awkward. The host Jan, has a wonderful sense of humor.

Africa – 19th Sept 2008 – Day 18

We got up and had breakfast before heading of for the new lodge. John was still feeling unwell so Fiona did the driving. It took us 4.5 hours to reach Huab lodge. The last part of the journey was on dirt track and Fiona had great fun pretending to be a rally driver, this didn’t help John’s tummy !!!.

We were met by Ben and some of the other staff and shown around. The owners also have three dogs, Tess, Mafi (Labrador) and Eli (jack Russell), they also came to met us, and were very friendly, we especially fell for Eli who is just so cute. We were shown to our bungalow which is great, really spacious with a large balcony and spectacular view.

At lunch we met the owner Jan, who is German and made us feel really welcome (he speaks perfect English), most of the guests are German but there was also a British couple from Warrington (Liz and Mike). We had a fantastic lunch of salads and home made ice cream, John even tucked in as he was feeling better or so he thought. However after lunch John went down hill so we chilled until the late afternoon game drive with Ben our guide. John was still feeling quezzy (we think he had perhaps got mild food poisoning from a fried egg he had the last morning at Ongava).

We were joined on the drive by Liz and Mike. The pace of the drive was great much slower and not so frantic. Huab doesn’t have as much wildlife as Ongava but is much more mountainous. We saw the regular’s out there but we also saw a huge eagle owl in a tree, it was beautiful and posed for some photo’s. Apparently they can eat a small deer which is amazing.

We returned home had a quick shower and down to dinner. John was feeling even worse by now, so stuck to soup and water. This was a real shame because the owner brought out all these different types of South African wines for us to try, they were great the best we had had all holiday. The food was also excellent and the best so far, not great for the waist line.

We went back to our little bungalow and watched the stars from the balcony, absolutely amazing.

Africa – 18th Sept 2008 – Day 17

Last night turned out to be a very windy one indeed. By 2pm, the curtains in our tent were flying all over the place. John thought that he saw a lizard running around the room, but this turned out to be his imagination. However, the Zebra were screaming during the night which kept Fiona awake.

At 7am, after breakfast, we went on a walking safari with Cameron, the lodge manager. Otr was a very interesting walk, learning about all the local flora and fauna. Fiona spotted a buzzard in a tree. It turned out to be quite a rare species which even Cameron had not seen before in his 4 years at this Lodge. It turns out that Cameron and his wife Mary are opening a couple of lodges in another part of Namibia next year. They sound very interesting, tourism is certainly booming in Namibia.

Cameron was also telling us that Kate Humble from the BBC had been recently doing some filming.

We arrived back at 10 and chilled out on the patio, watching all the animals coming to and from the water hole which is just 20 foot from the patio. Some days you can see as much here as on a big drive.

After lunch we headed back to our tent to sit out the searing mid day heat. After refreshments, we headed off on our 4pm game drive with Angela and Adrian.

It was something of a frantic drive, word got around that there were a pride of lions in the area with cubs and who had recently made a kill (Oryx). John our guide drove quickly to the sighting, there were already 3 other trucks at the area of the lions. In the ongava reserve, trucks are not allowed off the main tracks, 3 of the trucks were already off tracks so they could get a better look at the lions. However we stayed on the tracks and 5 minutes later the ranger for the park arrived and caught one of the drivers, apparently the resort gets a huge fine and the driver looses his job. Of course it is the punters which put the drivers under this pressure to get so close, not good.

We managed to see the lions and the cubs, three of them, they were very cute. Again all the trucks bunched up together and this resulted in the mother lion being separated from the cubs, the poor cubs were distressed and were calling for mum. They managed to get round the trucks and were reunited. We told our driver we would rather leave the lions in peace which we did.

We drove for some time then came across a Lioness and Lion chilling by the side of the road. It turns out this is the mating season and just as we arrived they got down to the business, then chilled out again. According to John our guide, they mate for 4 days every 15 minutes !!!!.

We got back and had dinner, we sat with Ange and Adrian and had a really nice night. They live near the lake district, so we plan to go up there next year for some walking. They also have a dog a black Labrador who is two and very full of life, not sure this would suit Heather.

Cameron and Wendy our hosts bid us farewell for our journey to Huab lodge the next day.

John had a bit of a funny tummy that day so didn’t eat very much at dinner. We went to bed at about 10:00pm. After about 30 minutes we heard voices coming nearer and nearer to our tent. Then suddenly the door opened and two of the new girls who had ariived that day bounced in thinking it was their tent. We all got a shock but they managed to get to their correct tent which was one up from ours.

Africa – 17th Sept 2008 – Day 16

We both had a wonderful nights sleep, waking a few minutes before our wake up call at 6am.

After a quick shower we headed down for breakfast. Just as we arrived a lovely porcupine joined us in the garden looking for some breakfast. He has been names Charlie, by Camerons wife. He arrived in the camp a year ago looking ill and with a poorly foot. They have nursed him back to fitness and now he pops in every week for some apple and bread. They are much larger than we expected, but very cute.

We joined Cedric and Sabbela for the morning drive to the Atosha Gane Reserve. John was our guide again. We had a long drive to the park but once in the park saw a large number of animals including large elephants, hundreds of Zebra, a family of hogs having a mud bath and our first group of Mia cats.

We headed back for a good lunch where we met a couple of new English guests called Adrian and Angela.

The temperature here gets very hot by 2PM, so we headed back to our room to relax. We updated the blog and then tried to sleep, but the weather was far too hot. Unfortunately our new tent does not yet have it’s fan in place, so it gets very hot indeed.

By 3.30pm we met Angie and Adrian, Cedric and Sabbela for the afternoon drive. The animals were very thin on the ground, apart from two male lions and a few Giraff and, as always, the myriads of antelope.

On the trip, John, our guide, told us about the time, four weeks ago, when 15 lions came into the camp over night. It was his job to check the camp next morning. He almost came unstuck, when a female lion managed to sneak up to him in an ambush. Luckily John’s two gun shots scared the lioness off.

Dinner was a very civilized affair, we sat with Angela and Adrian. Wow, have those two travelled. They have given us lots of ideas for the future and introduced us to a company called Discovery Initiatives which they could not recommend enough. They live near Blackpool and love the outdoor life. Adrian works for one of Fiona’s companies resellers, Fijitsu. Angela is an accountant.We asked for some sparkling wine but ended up with a free bottle of Champagne. Very nice indeed!!

We headed for bed at about 10pm.

Africa – 16th Sept 2008 – Day 15

We woke up at 7am, dressed, at a little breakfast and packed and left ASAP. On the way out, the hostess again spoke to us in German!!

We drove out of the main lodge up to the reception area to settle our bill. The chap who took the game drive on the previous afternoon was at the desk.

He asked John if he had enjoyed his stay, so John gave a polite but honest answer. He found it quite amusing, agreeing that this was not really set up for any other nationality but Germans. He apologized for no English, literature, menu’s etc. and then told John that a couple from Manchester had visited a month ago and also hated the place. John asked him why his boss seemed happy to run the lodge in such a manner, He just shrugged and said “have a nice day”.

We left feeling angry and ripped off. They are happy to take our money but not to make us feel in any way, shape or form welcome. What a hell hole!!

We began our drive to Ongava Tented Camp, opposite the Etosha Game Reserve.

The drive was long and very, very easy, due to the Roman like, straight roads in Namibia. We saw lots of wart hogs on the way and stopped at the town of GoJoe to fill up with petrol. We felt that our car had allowed us to escape from Colditz, so we have named it Winston!!

We arrived at Ongava at 12.30, to be met by Cameron, one of the resort managers. What a relief. Back to the normal welcome and friendliness we have been used to in Africa. We had a quick lunch and then were shown to our lovely tent. It is spacious, new and fitted with both an indoor and outdoor shower. We look onto the waterhole where lots of Zebra, Acoodo, bush back etc. hang out.

After a rest, we joined the rest of the group for a 3.30pm cup of tea and coffee and then headed out for the afternoon game drive with our guide John, Mary and Sheradon (From Toronto) and Cedrick and Sabella from Paris, although Sabella is originally from Spain.

We drove around chatting, how nice to be able to chat with fellow guests again!! We came across a group of 9 White Rhino. They were all huge and we have never seen so many in one pod before.

John asked us to all get out of the Land Rover. He loaded his rife, checked the direction of the wind and then marched us quietly towards the pod. Rhino have very poor vision, but a good sense of smell and keen hearing to compensate. We had to watch were we were trading in order to minimize our noise. We got within 30 ft of the beasts. What a fantastic experience. At one time they became a tad edgy. John and his fellow guide were fantastic. They had already told us not to run, what ever happens. We stayed with the pod for about 20 minutes before making our way back to the Rover.

Later on, we came across a couple of Lions, who did not want to be hassled. As we moved away towards the watering hole, a pride of five arrived for a good drink. We were so close to them. We just looked at each other. They look so relaxed and cute. You really feel like you want to get out and stroke them!!

We had our G&T’s with the lions in the evening twilight. Great.

We had a quick turn around before sitting with the other guests and enjoying a good evening meal. We went to bed, escorted by one of the staff, just in case if lions in the camp, our faith restored in Namibia.

As lay in bed, we heard the lions raw in the distance and the sound of a few lizards scampering over the tent roof.

Africa – 15th Sept 2008 – Day 14

We had a wonderful nights sleep, the bed is comfy as are the pillows. Breakfast here is between 7 and 9, depending on your morning activity, as there is not so much to do here. The breakfast was good, but very German, cheese, ham, eggs etc.

After breakfast we joined the walking safari with another couple. The walk quickly became steep as we climber towards the plateau. On the way we saw cacubara, they look like a very large guinea pig, but they are very agile and climb trees to reach the juicy leaves and fruits. Very entertaining.

We also came across a troupe of monkeys who were as interested in us as we were of them.

After an hour of walking through the arid landscape, and amazing natural rock sculptures, we came to the plateau edge. Wow, what a great view. We rested on the edge for half an hour enjoying the cooling breeze.

We then made our way back down to the valley floor, passing a recent trail left by a black mamba snake.

By the time we reached the valley floor, the temperature was through the roof. We walked back along a dusty road, hoping we would be home soon as the temperature continued to climb.

Once back at the lodge (which we renamed Coldizt), we sat in the garden trying to ignore all the flies. We soon noticed that they had spread animal dung all over the garden, no wonder there were so many flies!!

After a siesta, we went to the afternoon tea area where we met the German guide. He spoke quite good English but he mentioned (without prompting) that this lodge was very Germanic!

When the afternoon drive began, it became obvious that he did not want to speak any English, due to the fact that seven guests were German and only two English. He occasionally spoke a few words of English but that was it. It also became obvious that the other guests were only interested in seeing Rhino. So, the trip out was frantic. He would not stop to see any birds or other animals as they just wanted Rhino.

We found the Rhino, which seemed far too tame. They came right up to the Land Rover.

At sun downer time, we stopped for a drink. However, unlike every other lodge, we were not asked what we wanted to drink. The other guests seemed happy with beer or cider, so that was that. During the stop, another extremely tame ostrich joined us. He just stood with us all watching!

After the game drive was over (thank god), we dressed for dinner and headed down to the bar. We were dreading another evening meal, being ignored by the staff and most of the guests.

The evening was as bad as expected. Again the menu was only in German, the host only spoke German (even though she knew were did not speak the language). We ate a quickly as we could and then went back to our room.
We are very angry with the staff and our travel agent, Audly Travel, for sending us here. We hate this place and can not wait to leave.

Africa – 14th Sept 2008 – Day 13

After a very fitful sleep we were up at 05:00am to catch our bus to the airport. We had ordered food to our room the night before which was truly dreadful and after several attempts we gave up trying to order a video to watch – how the D’Oreal can claim to be a 5 star is quiet beyond us – it’s a 3 star at best.

We were driven right to the departures gate at J’burg airport, we were second in the queue for the check-in to Windhoek flying with Air Namibia. The check-in was supposed to start at 05:45 but no one arrived to set up until after 06:00, by which time there were loads of people queuing. BA staff were doing the check in for Air Namibia – what a lot they were, couldn’t organize anything and were all really stroppy – seems to be the standard in J’burg. Anyway after some palaver we got our seats and went through to departures.

J’burg airport is pretty new and has some nice shops to Perouse. The exchange rate is very good so stuff is cheap. Fiona bought some long walking trousers (the bugs really bite out here, so hoping long trousers will do the trick).

The flight was pretty good and on time. When we arrived at Windhoek we were going to be met by the local Audley agent, however we waited 30 minutes and nobody arrived. John managed to get some signal on his phone but couldn’t get through to these guys, about 10 mins later the guy arrives saying the flight is usually always late !!!. He drove us to a local hotel where we were going to meet the main rep, he drove like a nutter, about 2” from the bus in front the whole way to Windhoek city centre.

Windhoek is actually pretty big and very clean, it is hugely influenced by Germans who had control of the country until 1990, all the roads have German names or famous African leaders – even Robert Mugabe.

We picked up our car which is a huge 4 wheel drive job, and the local rep took us through our itinerary in detail. Around lunch time we set off for our first destination – Waterburg Wilderness lodge, but not before John had churned up the hotel garden trying to reverse the 4 wheel jeep to get out the front gate – the rep’s face was a picture when he saw the hole that had been left, we needed to put the car in 4 wheel drive to get it out.

After that we hit the road with no major incidents. The roads are very good compared to Zambia, the main roads are tarmac, the road signs are great, either a warning triangle with a wart hog or springbok. We saw wart hogs, monkeys, goats and horses along the road side. Eventually we took a turning of the main road and headed for the lodge along a dirt track.

When we arrived we were shown to our room, the itinerary describes this lodge as simple, which is pretty accurate, the rooms are clean. When you get into your room you are given an itinerary of room items, which you need to check and then sign. We have never had to do this before, it made us feel like we could not be trusted, very odd. Everyone else at the lodge is German, so perhaps they are apt to nick the odd china cup or bowl of sugar, time will tell. One of the gardeners gave us a whirl wind walk round the facilities, these guys are not as relaxed as the staff in the Zambian lodges and it feels a bit like an army camp in terms of the rules etc.

We arrived just in time for coffee and cake, very nice. We then headed to the swimming pool, but it was very dirty and uninviting, so we sat in some loungers reading.

When we returned to our room, there on the floor was a print out of an e-mail sent to us from Pat & Ad which, was great. We will try and reply from here, but getting e-mail connection in most of the lodges is pretty patchy.

After another wee rest, we dressed and headed down to the dining area. The wine here is OK, so we sat around the fire with a few other German couples. John put some wood on the fire and then wondered if that was the correct thing to do as the Germans looked a little stern.

When we sat in the dinning area we realised that we were the only non Germans in the entire camp. Everyone just speaks German, including most of the staff and guides.

We sat with a German couple who spoke some English. However, once another German couple joined the table, the conversation was mostly in German. The dinner menu is only in German, very rude. We are in Namibia, not Germany!!

Tomorrow we are doing a walk up to the plateau in the morning and a game drive in the afternoon. We are hoping to see some Rhino in Namibia which aren’t found in Zambia, or at least at the reserves we stayed in.

Africa – 13th Sept 2008 – Day 12

Today was a boring travel day. We had an early breakfast and caught the shuttle bus to Livingston airport at 9am.


The airport was very busy and check in extremely chaotic. It looked like it would take for ever, when suddenly we were ushered to the front of the queue as BA had announced check in.


After a long and chaotic process we checked in and went to the lounge.


The flight to Johannasburg was fine. Once at the airport the Hotel shuttle bus took us to the hotel. Not a great place despite being a five star hotel. They put us in a smokers room. We complained and eventually got a good room facing the garden pool.

However, the temperature here is not that warm, only 16 degrees. We wandered into the casino and shopping mall next door. What an awful place. Full of fat people feeding themselves or slot mahcines.

we came back to our room and ordered room service and watched a video. Cant wait to get to Namibia. Joburg is bloody awful!!

Saturday, 13 September 2008

Africa – 13th Sept 2008 – Day 11

Today was a boring travel day. We had an early breakfast and caught the shuttle bus to Livingston airport at 9am.

The airport was very busy and check in extremely chaotic. It looked like it would take for ever, when suddenly we were ushered to the front of the queue as BA had announced check in.

After a long and chaotic process we checked in and went to the lounge.

The flight to Johannasburg was fine. Once at the airport the Hotel shuttle bus took us to the hotel. Not a great place despite being a five star hotel. They put us in a smokers room. We complained and eventually got a good room facing the garden pool.

However, the temperature here is not that warm, only 16 degrees. We wandered into the casino and shopping mall next door. What an awful place. Full of fat people feeding themselves or slot mahcines.

we came back to our room and ordered room service and watched a video. Cant wait to get to Namibia. Joburg is bloody awful!!

Africa – 12th Sept 2008 – Day 10

What a wonderful sleep. The room is cool, quiet and very comfortable. We woke at 7.30, relaxed with a cuppa and then headed down for breakfast. What a wonderful spread. They had everything you can imagine and the food was good and hot. We sat on the outside veranda enjoying the view and the food.

After breakfast, we headed down the Victoria Falls. However, without going into Zimbabwe, we could not get a good view of the main falls. We went back to the concierge who recommended taking a trip to Livingstone Island by boat. We were lucky they had just two seats left today on the 10.30 trip.

The speed boat whisked us to the island weaving through the small rapids on the way. Once there we were offered a foul drink, supposed to give us energy. Initially we were not impressed as we could still not see the falls from our location.

The main guide asked us if we wanted to swim in the Zambezi or not. Fiona was not sure as she thought it might be too cold. The guide insisted we go as he said we would regret it if we did not. So, we went!!


Wow, what an adrenalin rush! They took us to the very edge of the falls, where we swum against the current, only 30 foot from the very edge of the falls. It seemed crazy, but other guides were in the water with us at all times and assured us nobody had ever been hurt.


They were right, the current was not too strong and we soon reached a small island of rock in the middle of the falls. We walked to the outer edge of the island where he showed us a deep, fast flowing pool of water. This is where we were to jump in, so we could reach the very edge of the falls. We looked at each other, wondering if this really was insane, but the guide had one of his fellow guides jump in to make sure everything was fine. Two other guests jumped first and looked fine. John went first, followed by Fiona. The experience was surreal. We sat on the edge of the fastest flowing part of the falls. John managed to reach over to the very lip. We both sat in this fast flowing pool of water protected by shallow rocks in a deep whirl pool of water. It is an experience neither of us will ever forget.


After swimming back to the main island, we had a tea and coffee and chatted to a couple of Americans who were also taking a year off as well a couple of Australians.

We came back to the hotel still buzzing from our trip. We decided to spend the afternoon sitting around the lovely swimming pool, relaxing, as we have been on the go ever since leaving the UK.

We sat around the pool, dipping in for a cool swim every now and again. At 3 we took afternoon tea on the sunny veranda. During tea the a particularly cheeky monkey, dived into someone’s cake plate and ran off with a muffin. The monkeys here are very tame and will take any opportunity to grab some food.

After tea we returned to our sun loungers, only to have two scrapping monkeys leap over John and his sun bed as great speed, screaming as they went!!

In the evening we drank cocktails on the sun deck and enjoyed another fabulous meal.

This hotel is very, very, very good. It has a wonderful feel to it, the staff are great and the facilities wonderful. We have one of the most basic rooms on offer, but basic it is not. It’s a long way to come, but we could see ourselves popping back some time in the future.

Today’s Victoria Falls experience will stay with us both for ever. We keep looking at the photo’s and video taken by our guides and still can not believe we sat 6 inches from the edge of one of the most impressive water falls in the world.

Africa – 11th Sept 2008 – Day 9

Today marked our last day at the lodge. We rose early to go to the bird hide. The journey included driving to the river and crossing the river to the hide on the other side. Once there, we sat and watched the show. Hundreds of carmine bee eaters clinging to the mud bank, excavating their nests.

After half an hour, we took the canoe back to the bank and walked across the sand towards our land rover. We found a large number of lion prints in the sand, some very large. We later found out that others had seen a pride of lions watching us from the bush as we walked back to the vehicle. We had, Super Looker, the gun carrying scout, with us for safety. Just as well!!

On the way back to camp we spotted a couple of hyenas chilling out under a tree. They look a lot cuter in real life.

We had a hearty breakfast on our own (due to our departure time), said our farewells to our fellow travelers and drove back to the airport. On the way we saw a lot of elephants, giraffe, hippos, baboons etc.

We enjoyed driving through the small town just outside the airport. All the children and locals wave and smile at you all the time. They live in very small thatched huts with almost no modern facilities at their disposal. It looks like a hard life, yet they all seem so happy!!

At the airport we checked in (if only Heathrow could be like this), left the airport lounge for a café over the road, had a quick water and then boarded the plane for Lusaka.

The journey went smoothly. Once at Lusaka, we had to collect our bags, walk 50 yards check in again, only to get back on the same plane!!

We arrived at Livingstone airport to be met by our driver. After 20 minutes we arrived at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, located on the banks of the Zambezi and just a 15 minute walk from the Victoria Falls.

What an amazing hotel. It is only 6 years old yet has a colonial feel. The grounds are in the national park which explains the giraffe, monkeys and crocodiles in close proximity to the hotel. The monkeys roam everywhere and the hippo pop out from the Zambezi every now and again to say hi.

We showered and then watched the sun set over the Zambezi on the cocktail deck. Very nice indeedy.

Our evening meal was wonderful, far better food than you get in the bush. We retired to the massive bed early to get a long and well needed sleep in an air conditioned room.

Africa – 10th Sept 2008 – Day 8

Another 5.30 drum roll ushered in the day. Are a weary tea around the camp fore, we met our scout (who had a gun) called SuperLooker. We headed off with Ian and Jo for a walking safari.

We came across a troup of monkeys in a large dead tree. We also came across the scull of a buffalo which John managed to extricate a tooth from. We examined lots of animal poo which became a tad boring after a while. We reached the mobile hide located next to a watering hole. We saw, hogs, love birds, fish eagles, Gnu’s, Impala etc. we sat in the hide, drinking juice and eating biscuits. This place was fantastic and we would have liked to have stayed longer.

On the walk back, the temperature had risen significantly. Fiona spotted a hyena in the distance, the first one we have seen.

We walked back through the ebony forest which was a great deal cooler, passing a lonely hippo on the way.

Once back at camp we waited for two other guests to arrive back from their private drive. However, we discovered from the other guests, that they had seen a leopard that had just killed an impala. They had some great pictures. We were very envious indeed. We are yet to see a leopard and hope to see one later today.

We again decided to miss out on the mid day drive and lunch, choosing instead to have a bath and relax. The elephants had other ideas. No sooner had we left the bath that the elephants retuned to our garden but this time they peered into the hut and then stayed around for an hour.

They were so close that we could smell them. They are very gentle animals as long as they call the shots!.

When the others came back, they had seen the leopard again, so we asked to go out that evening and look for the leopard and her cubs. \

At 4PM we met with our guide and began our search for the leopards. Our guide took longer than the others and we arrived last in a line of three. By the time the other two had moved away, the leopards had been spooked and moved further back into the bush. We could just about make them out, but felt cheated having seen the photo’s the others had managed.

We carried on our drive, seeing all the usual aminals, stopping for our sun downer G&T’s at a lovely spot by an old river.

On the way back the spotter (the guide who uses the light the find animals in the evening) looked and looked for any other leopards but with little luck. Suddenly our radio crackled into life. Another lodge guide had found a leopard walking near to us. We droved in the direction indicated and soon came across a lone female leopard walking in the scrub. She was beautiful to watch.

That evening was had another very good meal and went to bed tired.

Africa – 9th Sept 2008 – Day 7

Today began with the drum call at 5.30am. What a time! We hauled ourselves out of bed, dressed and met everyone else around the camp fire. We drank our tea and coffee watching the pink sun rising over the camp.

We boarded our van for the morning drive. We quickly found three great elephants who refused to get out of the road for about 20 minutes. We saw giraffe, hogs and a whole host of other wild life.

We arrived back at camp for 10am for a full breakfast which was very well received. We Decided not to join the mid day event, but to relax back at our hut. We have a sizable bath on a raised platform out side the hut. We filled the bath and paid in it listening to the hippo and birds.

Fiona popped out to dry off and John remained. However, after 10 minutes a great deal of bush noise began from just behind the bamboo and reed screens. I looked over the screen to see two large elephant ears flapping vigorously. I jumped out of the bath just in time to see three elephants (two adults and a baby) heading for our garden The three took 15 minutes to walk through, eating leaves as they went, sniffing the bath and looking at us both with interest.

We relaxed in our room and in the hammock for the afternoon, before joining the 4pm drive. We visited the elephant hide. The hide is perched 30 ft high in a tree on a platform. The platform also doubles are a night stay over location, as it contains a mattress etc.

We sat on the platform talking to Dave, Martin, Judith and Jo, all of whom live in Kent. Our guide Ratiff, made excellent G&T’s and we chatted, listened to the wild life and relaxed, watching the sun waning over the river.

After Sundowners, we drove back to the lodge, showered, dressed and met some new folk who had arrived during the day. We sat next to two of then. John got chatting and it soon turned out that they had both been at Bradford University when John had been there. They discussed the local clubs and curry houses and university life over dinner.

The dinner was very good indeed and we all went to bed, ready for a good nights sleep.

Africa – 8th Sept 2008 – Day 6

Another travel day, another lodge. We had a quick breakfast and drove down to the air strip to catch our next flight out to Southern Luangwa. This time the plane was larger and brand new to boot.

The flight to Luangwa took just under two hours and was mainly smooth. At Mfuwe airport we met our camp guide who took us through the sprawling village of Mfuwe and into the South Luangwa National Park where we quickly came across giraffe, buffalo, Zebra etc.

We stopped for a tea break by a lake surrounded by crocodiles, deer and hogs.

We arrived at the Kaingo Camp after about three hours. It’s very different to the last lodge, more “back to nature”. After a quick lunch, we were shown to our room, which looks like Hagreds hut from the Harry Potter films. The room is very quaint and rustic, with it’s own full sized bath on a raised platform, overlooking the river. After only a few minutes, we met with one of the camp Guides and headed off for a game drive.

Before the drive, we visited one of the lodges hides, this time the Hippo hide, where we were able to get really close to the hippos. They seemed very sleepy, so our guide tried waking them up by getting down the bank and making hippo type noises.

This area is very different to look at with many more trees and an ebony forest. We saw many animals including a lion sitting in a tree. We also met some guests from the previous lodge who were behind us on another land rover!!
We met the other guests at the bar in the evening and after a tasty evening meal, went to bed exhausted.

Sunday, 7 September 2008

Africa – 7th Sept 2008 – Day 5

Our tea and coffee arrived at 6.15 this morning. We watched the sun rising over the Zambezi whilst waking up. We met our guide, Tony, at 7 for a last cup of tea before heading off in the Land Rover for our bush walk.

We saw elephants on the way. Once parked up, Tony grabbed his rifle and we were off hiking in the bush. We made our way up a local mountain towards a natural spring. After an hour we stopped and took in the views of the Zambezi and the bush land below us. We sat listening to the silence for a while and watching some small cuddly animals on a near by rock.

We headed back down to where our chef was cooking a full English breakfast for us. The smell of the bacon wafted towards us over the cool breeze. We arrived to the noise of sizzling food and soon sat down for eggs, bacon, local sausage, mushrooms and tomatoes. It’s the largest kitchen we have ever seen and certainly a unique place for a stunning breakfast.

We drove back to the lodge, pausing for baboons, elephants, elk and impala.

Africa – 6th Sept 2008 – Day 4

A loud knocking at 5.45am brought us both out of a fitful snooze. Our tea and coffee had arrived! We woke up, dressed and walked down to the lodge for breakfast. The sun was coming up and the views of the Zambezi were stunning. The hippo were still groaning away to each other and the baboons were stirring.

After toast and marmite, we jumped into the Land Rover with out two trusty guides, Brian and Basaka, and began our morning game drive. The temperatures are low in the mornings and evenings, so we had our ponchos on to keep us warm.

We had a very good five hour drive seeing a large number of hippo, elephant, gazelle, water buck, impala, baboons and a variety of bird and plant life. We stopped close to the Zambezi for a cup of tea and coffee. The hippo were happy to chill out next to us as a group of elephants walked on by.

On the way back to the lodge, Brian spotted a couple of young male lions, sitting in some scrub. Brian, decided to drive through some scrub to get closer. We sat watching each other for a while. Suddenly one of the lions became alert. A group of water buck had wandered close by and had not seen the lions. For a few minutes it looked like there might be some action. However, the water buck caught a wiff of the lions and left the area pronto.

We arrived back at the lodge rested and then lunched with the other guests.

At three pm, we met our guides as well as Alexandra and her mother, Natasha. We had all agreed to kayak down the Zambezi.

We met our guides down at the quay. Fiona and I and our guide in one, Alexandra her mother and another guide in the other. We floated down the Zambezi for a couple of hours in complete silence, surrounded by everything that Zambia can show. It was weird to think we were floating on top of Hippo and Crocodile. We would see then both in front of us. They would disappear from viedw only 10 metres in front and then reappear behind. In places the water was very shallow but still they avoided us.

After a few hours we turned into a small confluence. Immediately was passed stunningly coloured kingfishers, birds of all shapes, colours and size, crocs from the very smallest to the very largest, buffalo, elephant, hippo (especially a local named Bob) and his mate and baboons and monkeys galore.

After three hours we moored up and were met by the Land Rover and a few other guests. We congregated on the river bank for wine. After 15 minutes, our boat arrived to speed us back to the lodge. Only Fiona and I boated back. The others took a night safari drive.

The boat flew back along the Zambezi in the twilight, a truly magical experience. We flew by Hippo in the moon light and soon arrived at the lodge. Our guide escorted us back to our tent and we showered in readiness for our evening meal.

We had a fine dinner retired to bed.

Africa – 5th Sept 2008 – Day 3

Today started very early with all our alarms going off at 5am. We rushed down for a quick breakfast before getting the 5.30 taxi bus to Lusaka airport for our Royal Zambizi Charter flight to our next destination, the Royal Zambizi Lodge. However, once at the airport confusion set in. Our itinerary shower two companies flying us to the lodge. We ended up going to the Pro Flight office to be told we needed to be at the Airport Hangers!!

They arranged for us to be transferred by cab, but the cab took for ever to arrive and we constantly got the impression that we were not expected.

The 4x4 arrived and took us across the airport to the hanger. Again the lady in charge seemed surprised and did not have our onward flight details either. We met Jo, an English lady who later told us that she used to drive lorries around Heathrow for many years, before taking her flying exams and then getting a two year contract to fly small planes around Zambia. She had been in Zambia for just 5 months.

We boarded the thirty two year old plane and set off. The views were magnificent. After half an hour, we reached the valley where Jo circled twice to drop height. As she circled Fiona spotted four elephants below. The plane landed on a mud strip littered with animal dung.

There was no car to meet us. The man on the air strip, radioed the Lodge, who, yet again, were surprised we had arrived so early! They had expected us to be flying in later and with another air company.

It turns out that our itinerary was incorrect. We had used the wrong airline!! Jo had expected to fly out empty with supplies. Still we had landed and the weather was perfect.

Tracey met us in the land cruise. She is standing in for the owners who have taken a couple of weeks off.

This place is wonderful. Our room looks onto the Zambezi river and we have a tented luxury villa with it’s own plunge pool and huge bed. We had a late breakfast sitting on the main veranda. What a start. The staff are mega friendly.

After a full English breakfast, we unpacked, rested and then took a boat out fishing. We both caught two small fish which were then used to catch the much larger Tiger Fish. Al, who was here on his honeymoon, had caught a 16 pound fish that morning.

We drifted down the Zambezi, at one time we were surrounded by hippo who kept popping up from under the water. We both caught a tiger fish and both lost them when they got near to the boat, so returned empty handed.

After a quick cup of coffee and a piece of cake, we were off on an early evening drive with Al and Jo (from the Caman Islands), and Brian and Bacasa, our guides. We came across elephant, impala, water buck, hog, lion etc.

We stopped at a clearing for a G&T and to watch the sun go down behind the mountain. The drive back was mainly in the dark. The elusive leopard, remained elusive. We did see a lioness with a wound to her side who glided past us in the dark.

We arrived back later than planned, rushed into the shower and then waited for our guide to walk us back to the lodge centre. Due to the local, elephant, baboons and lions, you need a guide to walk you anywhere out of camp after dark!

We met Alexandra, a lady who is in Zambia for two years with VSO, during our evening meal. Afterwards, we had a quick drink around the fire, chatting with other guests. We both felt very tired, so we found our guide, walked back and fell into bed.

At 2AM, we both woke with a start! It sounded like something very large was in our room and, due to the generator being turned off, everything was pitch black. John needed to go to the little boys room but Fiona was not keen to be left on her own, having now convinced herself that she was about to be eaten by something very big, probably a lion.

John eventually lit the room by turning on the PC and then found a torch so he could go to the loo.

The noise outside the room continued and we drifted back off to sleep.

Africa – 4th Sept 2008 – Day 2

We landed at Cape Town bang on time after a tasty BA breakfast. We had quite a walk with all our luggage from the international arrivals hall to the domestic departure hall.

We had a four hour wait for our flight to Johannesburg. They are rebuilding the airport so we sat in the departure lounge on the carpet!!

Just before the expected boarding time, they announced a delay due to a tire issue. Luckily, John went to the desk and explained that we had a connecting flight. The BA lady took control and we ended up going back out to the check in desks to pre check in to our connecting flight, so we could save time at Johannesburg.

There was added complication, due to the original credit card we purchased the flights with, having been stolen many months ago. It took for ever to get the tickets issued with John and the BA lady running round the airport like a couple of whippets!!

We eventually got the tickets and boarded the BA bus to the plane with only minutes to spare.

The flight to Joburg went well. When we arrived we had to transfer again for our last flight of the day to Lusaka. The small jet only held bout 20 people. We were at the back, buy the engines. We landed 1 hr and 20 minutes later in Lusaka, very tired!!

We cleared immigration, having to hand over 150 USD to enter the country. We met our driver and went to the hotel, the Taj Pamodzi. Nice hotel with a good large bedroom. However, the check in staff insisted that the room had not been paid for!! So started a fraught hour of phone calls to the UK to find out why. Eventually Audly phoned back and confirmed everything was OK.

We had a very good meal. Fiona had steak and John had the fish tandouri, yummy!!

We checked out before going to bed due to the early start next day. However, the cashier tried to charge us for the room again. After some debate with other staff, the agreed not to charge us.

We went to bed very tired and had a good nights sleep.

Africa – 3rd Sept 2008 – Day 1

Today marked the start of our epic five and a half week African adventure.

We dropped off Heather (our dog) at John’s parents in Kent. John’s Dad had a very painful hand which he had damaged three weeks earlier. We was in a lot of pain!!

We said our goodbyes, dropped the car at Fiona’s work car park and took a taxi to the new Terminal 5. Everything went smoothly and the new BA Club lounge was fantastic with large, cold glasses of bubbly and hot and cold snacks.

The plane took off on time and the new club seats were great. They recline into a completely flat bed and the new on demand video system was excellent.

Tuesday, 2 September 2008

Greece - 30th Aug 2008 - Day 14

Today marked our last day of sailing and our return to Nidri - boo hoo. We had all had such a great time and were hoping for a good windy return to base.



However, the wind was very light, so we chugged across the bay to revisit some caves that Jon and Jane had not seen.



We arrived first and were quickly followed by a huge tourist boat which forced us out of the way!!. John wanted to tough it out with the larger boat but I managed to get him to see sense !!!.

We then all sailed very slowly back up the channel to the island of Meganisi, using the goose wing technique passing a tall ship on the way. The whole flotilla had decided to meet up in one of the bays for Lunch - we again had some good snorkeling and swimming, followed by lunch on board.



In the afternoon we made our way up the island of Scorpio's (Onassis lot) hoping for stronger winds. At the top of the island we did hit some stronger winds but these didn't stay long. By this time we had been joined by Jon, Jane, Steve and Kathy. Let the race being!

We agreed to head for a point on the coast in light winds and see who could arrive first. There was some confusion about stopping for tea. At one point John and Jane managed to nose in front of Steve and Kathy at which point they decided that was the finish point. Handy!! John and Fiona came up the rear due to starting three boat lengths down.

We then headed back on our selves. John & Fiona where in front, then Steve and Kathy stole their wind and cut ahead, followed by Jon and Jane.

We then decided to race back to Nidri. Suddenly the wind blasted and we were flying!! John and Fiona had to hold Babette off the port side of LillyBelle just missing them. John and Jane pulled into the wind to reef their sails but we carried on at full pelt with Steve and Kathy.

At one point we were so far in front of Jon and Jane that the race was over. Steve suggested we do a full 360 turn in order to allow Jon and Jane to catch up. We agreed and John and Jane sailed past us. At this point the wind vanished and we realised we had managed to jam our genoa mechanism so could not get the sail back in.

We radioed to held and Ed was soon flying out to fix the problem. We arrived back at Nidri tired but full of excitement!!

Steve and Kathy hosted a champagne celebration on their yacht and the six of us polished off three bottles and had a great end of sailing celebration.



After a wee drinkie, Jane gave us a first class impression of her son Rod in a "Dance Off".



We had so enjoyed the two weeks sailing, especially the learning and also meeting lots of fun people, especially Jane and Jon and Steve and Kathy. We had spent almost two weeks with Jon and Jane and enjoyed every minute of it.

That evening was the end of flotilla Hawaiian party. Ed and sweetie dressed for the part, there were swimming races for charity, everyone dressed for the part and a full Greek buffet was laid on.

We had a great evening, chatting away and consuming a little too much alcohol. Some made it to the bar, some did not!!

The next day we chilled out around the pool and then headed back to the airport and home to Gatwick where we said our goodbye's to Jon and Jane. Jon is now convinced the speedo on his boat was not showing his true speed, which, of course, was mush faster than displayed!!

A great end to a fantastic holiday. It's a very social type of holiday and would recommend it to anyone. If your interested, take a look at: http://www.neilson.co.uk/yacht.aspx Remeber to ask for Rae as your trainer and Ed, Sweetie and Harry as your team. They were all just superb!!

We will definitely go yachting again soon, maybe in New Zealand!!

Off to Africa today!!

Greece - 29th Aug 2008 - Day 13

Today's agenda? Head to Sivota! The additional challenge from the lead crew? Create an inventive cocktail which they would judge that evening. They also asked us to create a devise that would allow an egg to be dropped from the top of a mast without breaking.


Jon and Jane made breakfast this morning, eggs and bacon & Harrods Tea. Lovely!!



The days sailing was very relaxed with good wind but not too much sailing involved as the distance between points was not far.



We had yet another good lunch stop with the famous tuna, tomatoes and bread followed by some snorkeling and swimming.

The wind continued to increase during late afternoon and Jon and Jane headed into the port. John and Fiona stayed out for about another hour making the most of the strong winds. At one time we had reefed the sails in but then returned to full sails at the very end.



What a wonderful days sailing!!

That evening we moored our yachts directly onto the quay, opposite some lovely tavernas. We quickly prepared our cocktail, called "Babs on the beach", and headed off to the local bar for the competition. Our plan had been to allow the egg to drop onto a hammock, but this was not allowed!!






After much supping of cocktails the judges gave John and Fiona's efforts a third place. Jon and Jane's came nowhere!!!! However, revenge was to be sweet for Jon and Jane as their egg remained in tact when dropped from the mast!! Three couples eggs survived, so it was time for the knock out rounds.






This culminated in Jon plus Rob having to run with a 1 euro coin in their buttock cheeks to a glass and then to drop the coin in the glass.

Jon managed this on his second attempt and won the event buttocks down!! Robs excuse for coming second was that he was in shock having wrapped one of his ropes around the propeller and then hitting some rocks!!

John, Fiona, Jon, Jane, Steve and Kathy had a great meal directly opposite our yachts (how cool is that).






We finished off with some drinks, a good chat and then off to bed.

Greece - 28th Aug 2008 - Day 12

The lead boat crew were looking very delicate today - the orders were to head to Vasilliki. We were warned that the wind in this area in the afternoon often got up to force 6, so get in early.


It was our turn for breakfast, so John cooked two huge Spanish omelette's which all six of us gobbled down. Very impressive on such a small hob and grill, even though he said so himself!!




The wind in the morning was really fab - we tacked our way across the bay and stopped at a great location for lunch. Again we had tuna and mayo plus Jane's very special Harrods Tea which they had brought along with them - real social climbers those 2. The bay we stopped at was next to a cave which we could swim into - a bit eerie.

We headed out of the bay on to Vasaliki. As we reached the end of the peninsula the wind picked up massively and we were propelled out into the sea at over 7.8 knots, tilting 30 degrees. We made a quick turn around and headed back into the shelter of the bay to put in a reef or 2.



When we went back out it really made a big difference. We got into the harbour at about 18:00. the wind was amazing.

We celebrated our great day with some Harvey wall banger cocktails that John had made. The lead boat crew joined us and gobbled the lot.



Eventually, Fiona and Jane went for another shower on shore.



Suddenly all hell broke loose as the wind forced Babette and Lillybelle to break free from the yacht attached to the quay. In the struggle to save the yachts from drifting into the harbour, Jon crushed his finger and John had to hold onto 6 inches of rope until another flotilla member called Dave found a large rope and began to secure the boats. It wasn't until Ed and Sweetie arrived that we were able to properly secure the yachts.

That night we went to another quaint restaurant but the food wasn't up to much. That night we had another broken night of sleep due to a disco on shore blasting out music until 3am.

Greece - 27th Aug 2008 - Day 11


The next morning we had breakfast with Jon and Jane. They made us their breakfast special of Survival Pancakes. These pancakes were made of flower and water and dried fruit. A generous helping of honey or jam helped them down and they were very filling.


We needed to get more supplies, so decided to take one of our yachts across to the opposite side of the town where the main shops resided. After much discussion, Steve agreed to take his tub across and to show us how to get the most out of the available wind by sailing to the shops across the busy harbour. The trip across was an eye opener as Steve and Kathy sailed close to other yachts and eked every breath of power out of the small puffs of wind. We still managed over 3 knots of speed and moored up without problems.


We purchased our vitals and then headed back. Fiona tried to sail us back but the wind vanished so we used our motor to return.


Our morning briefing had instructed us to sail to Kioni. We plotted our route and this time left later in the hope of catching more wind. Again we stopped at a great bay for a do it yourself lunch - yet more tuna and mayo.





We arrived in Kioni at about 18:00 - again we were in a raft and had to get to shore by dingy. The lead boat had organised a punch and dip evening on the quay which we went to - they had made a martini based punch which was very nice. After that the six of us headed to one of the tavernas and had another good meal.





On the way back to our boats we meet the rest of the flotilla who were extremely merry and vocal. As we headed back on the dingy's they were seen doing a conga to another bar - needless to say the next day they all looked a bit worse for wear - especially the lead boat team.





When we got back to our boats I remembered John had forgotten his phone which he had left to charge in the Taverna (very John !!). He and Jon got back in the dingy and sailed across to the restaurant and got the phone back.



On there way back they decided it would be fun to take the other boats dingy's and move them from the quay and tie them up on the ropes half way between the boats and quay. We heard the other guys on the Flotilla arrive at the quay and they were some what dismayed that their dingy's were now half way in the harbour - not sure how they retrieved them. We thought there would be some kind of retribution the next day but I don't think it clicked with them that it was the hand work of the 2 John's.
Kioni was a really lovely little town and harbour and we were sorry to leave it.

Greece - 26th Aug 2008 - Day 10

After a good nights sleep we had our morning briefing with Ed and Harry. Todays destiantion was Vathi.


The weather was not so kind today as the wind had all but vanished. Babette and LillyBelle motored all morning to get near to our final destination in the hope that the wind would blow hard in the afternoon.


We found a lovely quiet bay to anchor in. We had a swim and then tuna, tomtoes and fresh bread, again!! After a long lazy lunch the wind refused to blow and we decided to head into the port.




We radioed in for instructions and ended up rafting in the harbour again. However this time we were attached to a boat which was attached to the quay. Fiona and Jane went for a shower on shore - the showers on the boats were very small and a little claustrophobic.



We met Steve and Kathy munching through and enourmous fish which the recommended.



John took a look at some of the fish on offer and ordered two. After ordering John went back to the yacht to get his iPhone (for charging in the restaurant). During this time the chef came out and explained to Fiona that the cost of two fish would be almost 100 Euros!! Fiona reduced the order to just one fish which still cost 60 Euro's - the fish arrivied with nothing else. We both left the restaurant feeling poor and hungry.

Greece - 25th Aug 2008 - Day 9

We had our very first flotilla briefing at 09:30 in the Hotel bar.

We met our flotilla team for the week. The skipper called Ed (he is British but has lived in Auz a long time so has a strong Aussie accent), Sweetie, our engineer (he originates from Manchester - used to be an accountant but it wasn't his thing) and Harry who was the rookie (he came on holiday with his parents and loved it so much he stayed and got a job with Nelson's. However, he returns to Uni in October).






Our brief was to sail to Kastos and arrive at the harbour at about 17:00. We spent the day sailing along side Jon & Jane and stopping at a lovely bay for a swim and a spot of lunch before heading out to catch the wind.

After some good sailing, we headed for our destination and rafted up. This meant all the boats sitting off the harbour wall, tied together with ropes and stabilised by anchors and anchor lines.






We went to Chef John restaurant for a group meal, having to get to shore via a set of dingy's attached to ropes. The meal was very good and this is where we met Steve and Kathy and had a a good chat to many others on the flotilla.





Steve and Kathy were bare boating, which means they could sail on their own or join a flotilla. Steve is a pilot for Thomas Cook and Kathy works in the voluntary sector with young offenders and female prisoners. They have both been sailing for many years so can now rent boats independently of a flotilla.

We had a very good night out and went back to Babette very tired and had a great night's sleep due to the very quite location.

Greece - 24th Aug 2008 - Day 8

Another morning of relaxation around the pool. The weather was still very hot. We stayed around the pool until about 14:00 when we were given the name of our boat's so we could go onboard and familiarise ourselves with the layout, unpack our bags and stock up for the week.



Our boat was called Babette and Jon and Jane's boat was called LillyBelle. Our yacht was slightly newer than Jon and Jane's but their had a better layout and a far bigger fridge.

After we had made several trips to the shops to stock up the plan was to cook on board but it was so hot we all decided to go out again and visit our favorite Italian where Jane tried her first carbonara, which she loved. We did celebrate the start of the flotilla on our boat with a glass of bubbly.



Our first night on board Babette was not as good as expected due to the music from Nidri playing until the early hours and the very hot weather. John had to keep showering during the night and we both wish we had brought out a pair of ear plugs!!

Greece - 23rd Aug 2008 - Day 7

Today we chilled out around the pool with Jane and Jon. Jon had made a good recovery and was up and about but still a bit fragile.



It was great to simply relax, plop into the pool and practice our sailing knots and read our course booklets a few times. It was gratifying to see just how much we had all learnt in just four days.

We all agreed that Rae was a great teacher and that she had four brilliant students!!


That evening we had the statutory cocktail followed by another trip to the Italian Restaurant which became a firm favorite for us all.


Tomorrow we would get onto our yacht's but not actually start sailing until the Monday.

Greece - 22nd Aug 2008 - Day 6

We now had 2 days to ourselves before heading of on the Flotilla.

We had booked a trip on an old yacht called the St Christina. It was a very large boat which took 50 people, but we all had loads of space and a sun bed each. The hostess was a British girl who we think was involved with the captain of the ship, but she was a great narrator of all the local places of interest.



The first place we stopped at was a large limestone cave which was very impressive, then we motored to a small island and anchored up in a bay where we spent time snorkeling, the water was very clear but the fish life some what limited compared to places like the Maldives.



We visited two other ports and had buffet lunch aboard. We then had several other stops to swim and eventually worked our way back to Nidri via an Island called Scorpios which was owned by Aristotle Onassis. Our Hostess gave us a very interesting commentary on the history of the Onassis family, full of intrigue, greed and murder.



We arrived back at Nidri and 18:00. We went out for another meal which was really awful - John had wanted grilled sardines which were advertised on the Menu - but when they arrived hours later they were covered in batter and had been deep fried.

We went back via the tree bar and there was a couple of singers performing various songs including many Abba hits. The girl had a great voice and could sing with no musical backing. They were so good they became a regular turn at the bar.

Greece - 21st Aug 2008 - Day 5

Today we put our plan into practise and sailed to another Meganisi bay. We had purchased food for a picnic and the weather was looking calm.


Unfortunately, Jon had eaten a mussel risotto the previous night and it was now beginning to cause problems!! As the trip wore on he felt progressively worse. By lunch time, he was off his food and looking very pale. We moored off the bay using our bow anchor and a stern rope which John had to swim out to a rock on the beach. A bowlan knot was required which John managed after a wee while!!





We had a very nice lunch and swim in the bay.


In the afternoon, Rae changed our agreed route so we could find some wind. By this time, Jon was down in the galley feeling very poorly indeed.


We practised tacking, jibbing and then a new sail configuration called Goose Winging. This allows you to catch as much wind in the sails as possible when travelling down wind. Very impressive!!


By the end of the day Jon came back up on deck to sail but still looked rough!!


We all met back at the bar and Rae announced that we had all passed our weeks training program and the handed out our certificates!! At which point, Jon ran to the loo and was very, very sick. He then went to bed to sleep it off!!




In the evening, Jane, Fiona and John took Rae out to a lovely beach front restaurant called Toms. We had a very nice meal and then Jane went off to look after Jon. The rest of us went to another bar where Rae had cocktails and John & Fiona had an ice cream. We then went of to the Hotel and off to bed.

Greece - 20th Aug 2008 - Day 4

Today was our introduction to yachting navigation. We spent at least a couple of hours sitting at the bar with maps and plotters etc. working out how to find positions, bearings etc.

We then spent time on the boat, learning how to moor up on our own using the ropes and anchor. This was not as easy for Jon and Jane as expected!! In fact, we all found it quite challenging as there are a lot of tasks for just two people to complete.



We set sail for Meganisi again, but this time a different bay. We moored up using a lazy line for the first time, which was yet another way to anchor in a harbour.

We stopped at a really quaint taverna, where Jon and John had excellent fresh fish, Fiona had prawns and Jane had spaghetti bolognaise. The owner had a very cute bunny running around. we just hoped it would not end up on the menu!!

After lunch the wind strengthened to a force 4, so we had to reef in the sails again. Once under control, Rae had us all practise the "Man Over Board" manoeuvres. This again was more involved than first thought. Jon & Jane managed to retrieve Gerald (the fake man made off a fender and bucket) in one attempt (pure luck). Fiona took 2 attempts and John 3!!

That evening we were given homework by Rae. This involved choosing a destination for the next days sailing and then plotting our trip using the chart. Jon ended up getting over excited about all the options available to us and confused us all, even Jane!! However, we managed to agree a cunning plan for the next day.

After a long days training, we had a very good meal at one of the Italian restaurants in Nidri.

Greece - 19th Aug 2008 - Day 3

Today was another great days sailing and learning with Rae, Jon & Jane.



We practised a lot of Tacking and Jibing and also learned to reef the sails ourselves.

For lunch, visited the bay of Vathi on the Island of Meganisi. Having tied up, we dived off the boat and enjoyed the crystal clear waters. It was very hot and the cool water was very welcome.



We ate at a small taverna. We shared a Greek salad and John had squid and Fiona a local omelet.

The afternoon was spent learning to control the boat in lighter winds.

At night we visited a terrible Indian restaurant, where the food was a bright red colour and the wine awful.

After a small cocktail at the tree bar, we hit the sack!!

Greece - 18th Aug 2008 - Day 2

After a good nights sleep we woke refreshed and had breakfast. Not long after, we met with all the Nelson's team in the lobby and then with our Trainer, Rae, an energetic marine engineer and trainer to boot!!



We also met our fellow students Jon and Jane, a right couple of Pains (that's their surname) who were to be our training buddies for the next four days.



Rae immediately saw a problem, two Johns to teach. So, she gave us both nicknames. John was called Shorts, because he looked so dashing in his shorts and Jon became Cowboy, because in his cowboy hat he was a dead ringer for one of the chaps in the film Broke Back Mountain!!!
Rae took us through a few basics, handing out our knot ropes, training books and plenty of advise. We then headed off to the Neilson Yacht Pontoon (5 minutes walk away) to meet our training boat, Delos, a mature lady of the sea.



Rae took us all though the safety procedures including, flare usage, radio checks, life jackets and the daily checks we would need to use when leaving port, the acronym being SCREW standing for Sail Cover, Radio Check, Engine On and Wopes (ropes).

We were off on our first trip. We had plenty of wind, so much so we had to reef the sails (this means reducing the sail size to gain better control).

We had lunch back at Nidri as the wind was far too strong to allow us to moor at another location.

After lunch, we were able to put the mornings lessons into practise. It became obvious that Jon & Jane were struggling with the basics (not really). We had a great first day.



In the evening we visited the Tree Bar, having the first of many excellent cocktails to come. A meal had been arranged by Nelson's, but it did not materialise, so we had a very nice meal with Jon & Jane. Jon and Jane live in Woodford, East London, Jon is a primary teacher and Jane an admin officer in another local school. They have three children, Emily - 17, Laura - 18 and Rod - 20. Jon had just turned 40 (looks older) and this trip was part of his birthday celebrations.

We all shared a Greek Mixed Grill with Salad, yummy!!

Greece - 17th Aug 2008 - Day 1

We woke up early today to travel from Tim's (our mate in Hove) to Gatwick airport. We had been partying the night before so felt a little worse for wear!! The roads were quiet until we hit the airport. The terminal was very busy even though it was just past 7AM.
The take of was delayed a little, however, once off the ground, we managed to bad a couple of "extra leg room" seats and the flight went smoothly.
We landed at the military airport of Preveza. The weather was hot and the sky clear. We took a coach to the resort of Nidri where our hotel, The Athos, was located.
Check in was swift and our room was clean, cosy and air conditioned. We also met our yacht trainer, Rae, as she had helped to carry our luggage to our room.


After unpacking and showering we explored the hotel and the local town. The hotel has a good pool, garden bar and jacuzzi area. Very good for the price! See this link: http://www.lantisworld.com/athoshotel.htm

We found a small restaurant, ate a typical Greek dinner of salad and fish and went to bed exhausted, ready for our first days training.