Today was a boring travel day. We had an early breakfast and caught the shuttle bus to Livingston airport at 9am.
The airport was very busy and check in extremely chaotic. It looked like it would take for ever, when suddenly we were ushered to the front of the queue as BA had announced check in.
After a long and chaotic process we checked in and went to the lounge.
The flight to Johannasburg was fine. Once at the airport the Hotel shuttle bus took us to the hotel. Not a great place despite being a five star hotel. They put us in a smokers room. We complained and eventually got a good room facing the garden pool.
However, the temperature here is not that warm, only 16 degrees. We wandered into the casino and shopping mall next door. What an awful place. Full of fat people feeding themselves or slot mahcines.
we came back to our room and ordered room service and watched a video. Cant wait to get to Namibia. Joburg is bloody awful!!
Saturday, 13 September 2008
Africa – 12th Sept 2008 – Day 10
What a wonderful sleep. The room is cool, quiet and very comfortable. We woke at 7.30, relaxed with a cuppa and then headed down for breakfast. What a wonderful spread. They had everything you can imagine and the food was good and hot. We sat on the outside veranda enjoying the view and the food.
After breakfast, we headed down the Victoria Falls. However, without going into Zimbabwe, we could not get a good view of the main falls. We went back to the concierge who recommended taking a trip to Livingstone Island by boat. We were lucky they had just two seats left today on the 10.30 trip.
The speed boat whisked us to the island weaving through the small rapids on the way. Once there we were offered a foul drink, supposed to give us energy. Initially we were not impressed as we could still not see the falls from our location.
The main guide asked us if we wanted to swim in the Zambezi or not. Fiona was not sure as she thought it might be too cold. The guide insisted we go as he said we would regret it if we did not. So, we went!!
After breakfast, we headed down the Victoria Falls. However, without going into Zimbabwe, we could not get a good view of the main falls. We went back to the concierge who recommended taking a trip to Livingstone Island by boat. We were lucky they had just two seats left today on the 10.30 trip.
The speed boat whisked us to the island weaving through the small rapids on the way. Once there we were offered a foul drink, supposed to give us energy. Initially we were not impressed as we could still not see the falls from our location.
The main guide asked us if we wanted to swim in the Zambezi or not. Fiona was not sure as she thought it might be too cold. The guide insisted we go as he said we would regret it if we did not. So, we went!!
Wow, what an adrenalin rush! They took us to the very edge of the falls, where we swum against the current, only 30 foot from the very edge of the falls. It seemed crazy, but other guides were in the water with us at all times and assured us nobody had ever been hurt.
They were right, the current was not too strong and we soon reached a small island of rock in the middle of the falls. We walked to the outer edge of the island where he showed us a deep, fast flowing pool of water. This is where we were to jump in, so we could reach the very edge of the falls. We looked at each other, wondering if this really was insane, but the guide had one of his fellow guides jump in to make sure everything was fine. Two other guests jumped first and looked fine. John went first, followed by Fiona. The experience was surreal. We sat on the edge of the fastest flowing part of the falls. John managed to reach over to the very lip. We both sat in this fast flowing pool of water protected by shallow rocks in a deep whirl pool of water. It is an experience neither of us will ever forget.
After swimming back to the main island, we had a tea and coffee and chatted to a couple of Americans who were also taking a year off as well a couple of Australians.
We came back to the hotel still buzzing from our trip. We decided to spend the afternoon sitting around the lovely swimming pool, relaxing, as we have been on the go ever since leaving the UK.
We sat around the pool, dipping in for a cool swim every now and again. At 3 we took afternoon tea on the sunny veranda. During tea the a particularly cheeky monkey, dived into someone’s cake plate and ran off with a muffin. The monkeys here are very tame and will take any opportunity to grab some food.
After tea we returned to our sun loungers, only to have two scrapping monkeys leap over John and his sun bed as great speed, screaming as they went!!
In the evening we drank cocktails on the sun deck and enjoyed another fabulous meal.
This hotel is very, very, very good. It has a wonderful feel to it, the staff are great and the facilities wonderful. We have one of the most basic rooms on offer, but basic it is not. It’s a long way to come, but we could see ourselves popping back some time in the future.
Today’s Victoria Falls experience will stay with us both for ever. We keep looking at the photo’s and video taken by our guides and still can not believe we sat 6 inches from the edge of one of the most impressive water falls in the world.
Africa – 11th Sept 2008 – Day 9
Today marked our last day at the lodge. We rose early to go to the bird hide. The journey included driving to the river and crossing the river to the hide on the other side. Once there, we sat and watched the show. Hundreds of carmine bee eaters clinging to the mud bank, excavating their nests.
After half an hour, we took the canoe back to the bank and walked across the sand towards our land rover. We found a large number of lion prints in the sand, some very large. We later found out that others had seen a pride of lions watching us from the bush as we walked back to the vehicle. We had, Super Looker, the gun carrying scout, with us for safety. Just as well!!
On the way back to camp we spotted a couple of hyenas chilling out under a tree. They look a lot cuter in real life.
We had a hearty breakfast on our own (due to our departure time), said our farewells to our fellow travelers and drove back to the airport. On the way we saw a lot of elephants, giraffe, hippos, baboons etc.
We enjoyed driving through the small town just outside the airport. All the children and locals wave and smile at you all the time. They live in very small thatched huts with almost no modern facilities at their disposal. It looks like a hard life, yet they all seem so happy!!
At the airport we checked in (if only Heathrow could be like this), left the airport lounge for a café over the road, had a quick water and then boarded the plane for Lusaka.
The journey went smoothly. Once at Lusaka, we had to collect our bags, walk 50 yards check in again, only to get back on the same plane!!
We arrived at Livingstone airport to be met by our driver. After 20 minutes we arrived at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, located on the banks of the Zambezi and just a 15 minute walk from the Victoria Falls.
What an amazing hotel. It is only 6 years old yet has a colonial feel. The grounds are in the national park which explains the giraffe, monkeys and crocodiles in close proximity to the hotel. The monkeys roam everywhere and the hippo pop out from the Zambezi every now and again to say hi.
We showered and then watched the sun set over the Zambezi on the cocktail deck. Very nice indeedy.
Our evening meal was wonderful, far better food than you get in the bush. We retired to the massive bed early to get a long and well needed sleep in an air conditioned room.
After half an hour, we took the canoe back to the bank and walked across the sand towards our land rover. We found a large number of lion prints in the sand, some very large. We later found out that others had seen a pride of lions watching us from the bush as we walked back to the vehicle. We had, Super Looker, the gun carrying scout, with us for safety. Just as well!!
On the way back to camp we spotted a couple of hyenas chilling out under a tree. They look a lot cuter in real life.
We had a hearty breakfast on our own (due to our departure time), said our farewells to our fellow travelers and drove back to the airport. On the way we saw a lot of elephants, giraffe, hippos, baboons etc.
We enjoyed driving through the small town just outside the airport. All the children and locals wave and smile at you all the time. They live in very small thatched huts with almost no modern facilities at their disposal. It looks like a hard life, yet they all seem so happy!!
At the airport we checked in (if only Heathrow could be like this), left the airport lounge for a café over the road, had a quick water and then boarded the plane for Lusaka.
The journey went smoothly. Once at Lusaka, we had to collect our bags, walk 50 yards check in again, only to get back on the same plane!!
We arrived at Livingstone airport to be met by our driver. After 20 minutes we arrived at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, located on the banks of the Zambezi and just a 15 minute walk from the Victoria Falls.
What an amazing hotel. It is only 6 years old yet has a colonial feel. The grounds are in the national park which explains the giraffe, monkeys and crocodiles in close proximity to the hotel. The monkeys roam everywhere and the hippo pop out from the Zambezi every now and again to say hi.
We showered and then watched the sun set over the Zambezi on the cocktail deck. Very nice indeedy.
Our evening meal was wonderful, far better food than you get in the bush. We retired to the massive bed early to get a long and well needed sleep in an air conditioned room.
Africa – 10th Sept 2008 – Day 8
Another 5.30 drum roll ushered in the day. Are a weary tea around the camp fore, we met our scout (who had a gun) called SuperLooker. We headed off with Ian and Jo for a walking safari.
We came across a troup of monkeys in a large dead tree. We also came across the scull of a buffalo which John managed to extricate a tooth from. We examined lots of animal poo which became a tad boring after a while. We reached the mobile hide located next to a watering hole. We saw, hogs, love birds, fish eagles, Gnu’s, Impala etc. we sat in the hide, drinking juice and eating biscuits. This place was fantastic and we would have liked to have stayed longer.
On the walk back, the temperature had risen significantly. Fiona spotted a hyena in the distance, the first one we have seen.
We walked back through the ebony forest which was a great deal cooler, passing a lonely hippo on the way.
Once back at camp we waited for two other guests to arrive back from their private drive. However, we discovered from the other guests, that they had seen a leopard that had just killed an impala. They had some great pictures. We were very envious indeed. We are yet to see a leopard and hope to see one later today.
We again decided to miss out on the mid day drive and lunch, choosing instead to have a bath and relax. The elephants had other ideas. No sooner had we left the bath that the elephants retuned to our garden but this time they peered into the hut and then stayed around for an hour.
They were so close that we could smell them. They are very gentle animals as long as they call the shots!.
When the others came back, they had seen the leopard again, so we asked to go out that evening and look for the leopard and her cubs. \
At 4PM we met with our guide and began our search for the leopards. Our guide took longer than the others and we arrived last in a line of three. By the time the other two had moved away, the leopards had been spooked and moved further back into the bush. We could just about make them out, but felt cheated having seen the photo’s the others had managed.
We carried on our drive, seeing all the usual aminals, stopping for our sun downer G&T’s at a lovely spot by an old river.
On the way back the spotter (the guide who uses the light the find animals in the evening) looked and looked for any other leopards but with little luck. Suddenly our radio crackled into life. Another lodge guide had found a leopard walking near to us. We droved in the direction indicated and soon came across a lone female leopard walking in the scrub. She was beautiful to watch.
That evening was had another very good meal and went to bed tired.
We came across a troup of monkeys in a large dead tree. We also came across the scull of a buffalo which John managed to extricate a tooth from. We examined lots of animal poo which became a tad boring after a while. We reached the mobile hide located next to a watering hole. We saw, hogs, love birds, fish eagles, Gnu’s, Impala etc. we sat in the hide, drinking juice and eating biscuits. This place was fantastic and we would have liked to have stayed longer.
On the walk back, the temperature had risen significantly. Fiona spotted a hyena in the distance, the first one we have seen.
We walked back through the ebony forest which was a great deal cooler, passing a lonely hippo on the way.
Once back at camp we waited for two other guests to arrive back from their private drive. However, we discovered from the other guests, that they had seen a leopard that had just killed an impala. They had some great pictures. We were very envious indeed. We are yet to see a leopard and hope to see one later today.
We again decided to miss out on the mid day drive and lunch, choosing instead to have a bath and relax. The elephants had other ideas. No sooner had we left the bath that the elephants retuned to our garden but this time they peered into the hut and then stayed around for an hour.
They were so close that we could smell them. They are very gentle animals as long as they call the shots!.
When the others came back, they had seen the leopard again, so we asked to go out that evening and look for the leopard and her cubs. \
At 4PM we met with our guide and began our search for the leopards. Our guide took longer than the others and we arrived last in a line of three. By the time the other two had moved away, the leopards had been spooked and moved further back into the bush. We could just about make them out, but felt cheated having seen the photo’s the others had managed.
We carried on our drive, seeing all the usual aminals, stopping for our sun downer G&T’s at a lovely spot by an old river.
On the way back the spotter (the guide who uses the light the find animals in the evening) looked and looked for any other leopards but with little luck. Suddenly our radio crackled into life. Another lodge guide had found a leopard walking near to us. We droved in the direction indicated and soon came across a lone female leopard walking in the scrub. She was beautiful to watch.
That evening was had another very good meal and went to bed tired.
Africa – 9th Sept 2008 – Day 7
Today began with the drum call at 5.30am. What a time! We hauled ourselves out of bed, dressed and met everyone else around the camp fire. We drank our tea and coffee watching the pink sun rising over the camp.
We boarded our van for the morning drive. We quickly found three great elephants who refused to get out of the road for about 20 minutes. We saw giraffe, hogs and a whole host of other wild life.
We arrived back at camp for 10am for a full breakfast which was very well received. We Decided not to join the mid day event, but to relax back at our hut. We have a sizable bath on a raised platform out side the hut. We filled the bath and paid in it listening to the hippo and birds.
Fiona popped out to dry off and John remained. However, after 10 minutes a great deal of bush noise began from just behind the bamboo and reed screens. I looked over the screen to see two large elephant ears flapping vigorously. I jumped out of the bath just in time to see three elephants (two adults and a baby) heading for our garden The three took 15 minutes to walk through, eating leaves as they went, sniffing the bath and looking at us both with interest.
We relaxed in our room and in the hammock for the afternoon, before joining the 4pm drive. We visited the elephant hide. The hide is perched 30 ft high in a tree on a platform. The platform also doubles are a night stay over location, as it contains a mattress etc.
We sat on the platform talking to Dave, Martin, Judith and Jo, all of whom live in Kent. Our guide Ratiff, made excellent G&T’s and we chatted, listened to the wild life and relaxed, watching the sun waning over the river.
After Sundowners, we drove back to the lodge, showered, dressed and met some new folk who had arrived during the day. We sat next to two of then. John got chatting and it soon turned out that they had both been at Bradford University when John had been there. They discussed the local clubs and curry houses and university life over dinner.
The dinner was very good indeed and we all went to bed, ready for a good nights sleep.
We boarded our van for the morning drive. We quickly found three great elephants who refused to get out of the road for about 20 minutes. We saw giraffe, hogs and a whole host of other wild life.
We arrived back at camp for 10am for a full breakfast which was very well received. We Decided not to join the mid day event, but to relax back at our hut. We have a sizable bath on a raised platform out side the hut. We filled the bath and paid in it listening to the hippo and birds.
Fiona popped out to dry off and John remained. However, after 10 minutes a great deal of bush noise began from just behind the bamboo and reed screens. I looked over the screen to see two large elephant ears flapping vigorously. I jumped out of the bath just in time to see three elephants (two adults and a baby) heading for our garden The three took 15 minutes to walk through, eating leaves as they went, sniffing the bath and looking at us both with interest.
We relaxed in our room and in the hammock for the afternoon, before joining the 4pm drive. We visited the elephant hide. The hide is perched 30 ft high in a tree on a platform. The platform also doubles are a night stay over location, as it contains a mattress etc.
We sat on the platform talking to Dave, Martin, Judith and Jo, all of whom live in Kent. Our guide Ratiff, made excellent G&T’s and we chatted, listened to the wild life and relaxed, watching the sun waning over the river.
After Sundowners, we drove back to the lodge, showered, dressed and met some new folk who had arrived during the day. We sat next to two of then. John got chatting and it soon turned out that they had both been at Bradford University when John had been there. They discussed the local clubs and curry houses and university life over dinner.
The dinner was very good indeed and we all went to bed, ready for a good nights sleep.
Africa – 8th Sept 2008 – Day 6
Another travel day, another lodge. We had a quick breakfast and drove down to the air strip to catch our next flight out to Southern Luangwa. This time the plane was larger and brand new to boot.
The flight to Luangwa took just under two hours and was mainly smooth. At Mfuwe airport we met our camp guide who took us through the sprawling village of Mfuwe and into the South Luangwa National Park where we quickly came across giraffe, buffalo, Zebra etc.
We stopped for a tea break by a lake surrounded by crocodiles, deer and hogs.
We arrived at the Kaingo Camp after about three hours. It’s very different to the last lodge, more “back to nature”. After a quick lunch, we were shown to our room, which looks like Hagreds hut from the Harry Potter films. The room is very quaint and rustic, with it’s own full sized bath on a raised platform, overlooking the river. After only a few minutes, we met with one of the camp Guides and headed off for a game drive.
Before the drive, we visited one of the lodges hides, this time the Hippo hide, where we were able to get really close to the hippos. They seemed very sleepy, so our guide tried waking them up by getting down the bank and making hippo type noises.
This area is very different to look at with many more trees and an ebony forest. We saw many animals including a lion sitting in a tree. We also met some guests from the previous lodge who were behind us on another land rover!!
We met the other guests at the bar in the evening and after a tasty evening meal, went to bed exhausted.
The flight to Luangwa took just under two hours and was mainly smooth. At Mfuwe airport we met our camp guide who took us through the sprawling village of Mfuwe and into the South Luangwa National Park where we quickly came across giraffe, buffalo, Zebra etc.
We stopped for a tea break by a lake surrounded by crocodiles, deer and hogs.
We arrived at the Kaingo Camp after about three hours. It’s very different to the last lodge, more “back to nature”. After a quick lunch, we were shown to our room, which looks like Hagreds hut from the Harry Potter films. The room is very quaint and rustic, with it’s own full sized bath on a raised platform, overlooking the river. After only a few minutes, we met with one of the camp Guides and headed off for a game drive.
Before the drive, we visited one of the lodges hides, this time the Hippo hide, where we were able to get really close to the hippos. They seemed very sleepy, so our guide tried waking them up by getting down the bank and making hippo type noises.
This area is very different to look at with many more trees and an ebony forest. We saw many animals including a lion sitting in a tree. We also met some guests from the previous lodge who were behind us on another land rover!!
We met the other guests at the bar in the evening and after a tasty evening meal, went to bed exhausted.
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