At 5.30 our wake up knock at the door arrived. Far too early!!
We dressed in a daze, went to the lodge for a coffee and then jumped into the Lodge 4x4’s for our journey to Sossusvlei. Six of us ended up in one car, Tim and Freda plus a nice Dutch couple from Brussels. The dusty drive to the park gate took us 30 minutes. At 7am, the gates opened and we began our 60Km drive to our ultimate destination Dead Vlei. On route we stopped at some small dunes where two hot air balloons were passing near by. Our guide, Alex, talked us through Dune facts and figures and then said he would find us a White Lady spider and a side winder snake (much to Fiona’s disgust).
Whilst Fiona took pictures higher up on the dune, we looked for the spiders and snakes. Not long into our search, Alex found the tell tale signs including a smell! Within minutes he had found the snake. It looked amazing as it wound it’s way around the sand in a side ways movement. The snake is very poisonous so we had to keep our distance.
Soon after, Alex found the White Lady spider deep in the sand. After a while the spider relaxed and we took turn’s holding her.
We retuned to the 4x4 and drove past some wonderful dunes, arriving at the famous Dune 45, so called as it is 45Km’s from the park gate. We considered climbing it but decided to go to the largest Dune in the world. The famous Bid Daddy Dune, standing at 365 meters.
Alex dropped us off by a dry lake and we walked to the base of the Dune. As always, these things look bigger when get to the bottom of them.
We began our decent and soon realised we had bitten off more than we had realised. On a sand dune like this, it’s two steps forward and one and a half steps back. We reached the first stopping point. Tim and Freda were exhausted, as were we all. They decided to not walk further up, so Fiona, myself and the Dutch couple continued. Alex joined us half way up. We walked for an hour along the ridge of soft sand formed by the wind. The sand was soft but hard enough to form a kind of ridge path. We made frequent stops and reached the top after and hour and a half, a good speed according to Alex.
We were all truly exhausted but views of Dead Vlei below re focused our minds. The way down to the vlei (this means an area where water can collect however this vlai has not had water in it for 1000 years) below was the fun bit. It was a very steep sandy slope which resembled a black run in skiing. You just had to run down it vertically, the sand made a very strange noise as you tumbled down, a loud sort of squeaking noise. The sand was such that when you ran down it cushioned your steps and felt like you were running on air and in slow motion, it was FAB. It took us about 5 minutes to run down the slope to dead vlei.
Dead vlei looks like a white set of ceramic tiles and is made of lime and mud and is very hard, we walked across it taking pictures of the numerous dead trees which had a stunning background of the red dunes and the piercing blue sky. These made really great photo’s. At the edge of the vlei we met up with Tim and Freda who had walked around big daddy.
We all then headed back to the car, where Alex drive us a few minutes to a picnic stop under a large tree. Here he set up our brunch, which consisted of cereals, eggs, meats, cheese and Champagne. It was wonderful.
We then drove back to the gates, by now the heat was in the late 30’s and there was no one to be seen. When we arrived at the gate, Alex stopped to pay the entrance fee and get some petrol. He then drove us to Sossusveli Lodge so we could check out the quad biking for tomorrow, we booked to go on the sundowner trip which starts at 16:30. Whilst at the lodge we came across the tractor that is being driven by a 35 year old lady all the way from Holland to the south pole. On the way she met up with a dog and they now travel together. We also met her at Solitaire. For more info about her trip see www.tractortractor.org . We then drove the 30 minutes back to the lodge where we caught up on some sleep before meeting Tim and Freda for the sundowner horse ride.
We met our guide, Sam, who took us down to the stables to meet our horses. They were all very happy horses who looked in peak condition. Fiona was teamed up with Ubella, the turbo charged version. John had Johannas, a compact GTI.
Unfortunately John did not bring and jeans to Africa, so after 45 minutes of galloping, his calves were very sore. Still, the galloping was wonderful, even though Fiona’s horse kept stopping as he did not want to leave his friends to far behind!!
When it came to getting off the horses for our sundowner drinks and snacks, we all felt the effects of not having ridden for a while. We sat around our table drinking our G&T’s and watching the sun sink over the mountains. Suddenly, the chap who had been looking after the horses shouted that there was a large scorpion in the camp. We went over to the horses and here he was. About 7” inches in length, blackish crawling quite quickly. Again, we had to keep our distance as a sting from one of these is very painful indeed.
We finished our drinks and snacks and somehow managed to get back onto our horses for the return journey. We walked back due to the darkness closing in. It was wonderful to walk gently back through the dessert with the stars shinning above us. The peace and tranquilly washed over us all and by the time we arrived at the stables we were relaxed but stiff and very sore.
John had managed to rub the skin on his left leg. So, Freda went into nurse mode, promising to bring dressings to dinner.
We staggered back to our room, showered, changed and went back to the lodge to meet Tim and Freda and the Dutch chap who was on his own, due to his wife taking the horse ride and dessert sleep over trip.
During our meal, the staff began to sing local songs and entertained us for about half an hour with dancing and singing. At the end of dinner, Freda dressed Johns friction burns and we went to bed tired but very happy if a little exhausted.
Saturday, 27 September 2008
Africa – 25th Sept 2008 – Day 24
We woke up at 8am, had a quick breakfast, checked out and hit the road for our long drive to Dessert Homestead.
Initially the drive was just flat as we drive through the dessert. However, this route, the C14 followed by the C19, turned out to be the best drive so far. Every half an hour the scenery changed. We drove through stunning mountains, twisting gravel passes and long. , long sandy roads. We passed through the tropic of Capricorn and a host of animals on our way to our half way stop at a very small hamlet called Solitaire. We tried the world famous Apple Crumble, not bad but not as good as we have had at home. By now we were in amongst the cactus and hordes of white butterflies.
After a rest, we hit the road again. As we continued the spoil became orange and red and we began to see some dunes appearing on the horizon.
After 5 hours of driving we found the Dessert Homestead lodge. We settled into our new room which has a fantastic view down the valley. We sat around the pool, relaxing. The temperature here is not as hot as other parts of Namibia.
Later on Tim and Freda joined us for a beer. They had also travelled the same stunning route and were staying at Dessert Homestead for a couple of days. We all booked to visit the dunes at Sossusvlei early tomorrow as well as the evening horse sundowner ride.
Freda is a nurse back in the UK, so John showed here is burnt nipples which were now quite hard. Freda said they were not burnt but probably a reaction to a couple of insect bites, one on each nipple! They have begun to itch like mad, but John has resisted scratching them.
We had a very good meal and hit the sack in preparation for our early start.
Initially the drive was just flat as we drive through the dessert. However, this route, the C14 followed by the C19, turned out to be the best drive so far. Every half an hour the scenery changed. We drove through stunning mountains, twisting gravel passes and long. , long sandy roads. We passed through the tropic of Capricorn and a host of animals on our way to our half way stop at a very small hamlet called Solitaire. We tried the world famous Apple Crumble, not bad but not as good as we have had at home. By now we were in amongst the cactus and hordes of white butterflies.
After a rest, we hit the road again. As we continued the spoil became orange and red and we began to see some dunes appearing on the horizon.
After 5 hours of driving we found the Dessert Homestead lodge. We settled into our new room which has a fantastic view down the valley. We sat around the pool, relaxing. The temperature here is not as hot as other parts of Namibia.
Later on Tim and Freda joined us for a beer. They had also travelled the same stunning route and were staying at Dessert Homestead for a couple of days. We all booked to visit the dunes at Sossusvlei early tomorrow as well as the evening horse sundowner ride.
Freda is a nurse back in the UK, so John showed here is burnt nipples which were now quite hard. Freda said they were not burnt but probably a reaction to a couple of insect bites, one on each nipple! They have begun to itch like mad, but John has resisted scratching them.
We had a very good meal and hit the sack in preparation for our early start.
Africa – 24th Sept 2008 – Day 23
The alarm woke us up at 6.15am. Breakfast was a rapid affair. We jumped in the car and headed for Walvis Bay about 30 minutes drive along the coast.
The weather was calm but very foggy. This town has morning fog for almost 9 months of the year. The car heater was on full to start as the air is damp and chilly in the morning.
As we snaked our way along the skeleton coast, the fog lifted slightly, before coming in again at Walvis Bay.
We met our Kayaking guides at the Mola Mola Eco Kayaking hut, Jean and Barbara. We also met another couple of Brits from Manchester. Tim and his wife. We jumped into the 4x4 and began our journey to the launching beach.
At the beach, we could already see the odd seal face popping out of the cold Atlantic to take a look at us. We donned our kayaking kit, settled into the kayak and launched off into a mixture of sun and hazy fog on a very calm sea.
Immediately the younger seals began leaping around our Kayak, jumping and diving like small torpedoes. We turned right and headed up the coast to the seal colony. Once there the seals came to meet us in their droves. They are so inquisitive and up for fun. Fiona was in the front of the Kayak so received most of the splashes from the seals. They came up to sides of our craft and nibbled the oars. Some just chilled out whilst floating in the sea. The clasp a front and back flipper together and just float like a piece of drift wood.
After some time, we turned out to sea to find the local dolphins. They look quite different from your typical bottle nose.
After half an hour we found them, but they were shy. We managed to get in amongst a pod and had some swimming very close to us. Some other boats came near which excited them for a while. They were great to see in the open sea.
On the way back we were visited by hundreds of seals, both small and very large. They kept us entertained for almost an hour, coming right up to our hands and jumping just inches from the kayak. Suddenly, we looed up to see thousands of Cormorants heading our way in a huge flock. They fly just inches from the sea.
Once back on dry land, we took off our kit and supped some hot drinks. Somehow, Fiona had managed to get a very wet bottom! Just behind us a German couple got stuck in the sand in their vehicle. After much our effort our team managed to get them out. You have to let the air out of your tires and rev the engine in a high gear. Getting stuck out here in sand is not a good idea.
On the drive back, we came across some salt pans, but they were bright pink. The pans contain an algae that secretes a kind of natural dye. The pink water against the white salt and the blue sky looked amazing.
As we drove back to our lodge the fog closed in again as we decided not to quad bike here but to wait until we reach our next destination, Dessert Homestead where they also do horse riding in the dunes.
The kayaking had been great fun but exhausting. So we had a wee rest in our huge bed which we have named Bear, as it has a giant bear like fur top to it which is great to snuggle down into.
We then went into town for a coffee and a wander. We came across a few good shops where we purchased our African memento, a ceramic leopard called Lucy. We then walked back to The Stilts via the sea front where we picked up some lovely smooth pebbles for our earth collection. On the way back we stopped to watch a lone surfer, kite surfing in the strong winds.
After our rest, we showered and dressed in readiness for tonight’s restaurant at The Tug. As we sat in our hut, the sun began to set and wow, what a sun set. We have seen so many wonderful sunsets this year but this one was amazing. After the sun fell into the sea, we jumped into Winston and drove to the tug. However, when we reached The Tug the sunset was even more dramatic but we had left our camera’s at home. It looked as if someone had slapped some bright orange and pink sandy paint onto the sky. The edges looked like neon white paint.
We had the best table in the house, over looking the lapping waves. A great meal was had. A bottle of Brut bubbles in a top restaurant here is only £8.
Tim and Freda joined us later in The Tug. Luckily, they had stopped to photograph the whole sunset, so they will email them when they get back to the UK.
The weather was calm but very foggy. This town has morning fog for almost 9 months of the year. The car heater was on full to start as the air is damp and chilly in the morning.
As we snaked our way along the skeleton coast, the fog lifted slightly, before coming in again at Walvis Bay.
We met our Kayaking guides at the Mola Mola Eco Kayaking hut, Jean and Barbara. We also met another couple of Brits from Manchester. Tim and his wife. We jumped into the 4x4 and began our journey to the launching beach.
At the beach, we could already see the odd seal face popping out of the cold Atlantic to take a look at us. We donned our kayaking kit, settled into the kayak and launched off into a mixture of sun and hazy fog on a very calm sea.
Immediately the younger seals began leaping around our Kayak, jumping and diving like small torpedoes. We turned right and headed up the coast to the seal colony. Once there the seals came to meet us in their droves. They are so inquisitive and up for fun. Fiona was in the front of the Kayak so received most of the splashes from the seals. They came up to sides of our craft and nibbled the oars. Some just chilled out whilst floating in the sea. The clasp a front and back flipper together and just float like a piece of drift wood.
After some time, we turned out to sea to find the local dolphins. They look quite different from your typical bottle nose.
After half an hour we found them, but they were shy. We managed to get in amongst a pod and had some swimming very close to us. Some other boats came near which excited them for a while. They were great to see in the open sea.
On the way back we were visited by hundreds of seals, both small and very large. They kept us entertained for almost an hour, coming right up to our hands and jumping just inches from the kayak. Suddenly, we looed up to see thousands of Cormorants heading our way in a huge flock. They fly just inches from the sea.
Once back on dry land, we took off our kit and supped some hot drinks. Somehow, Fiona had managed to get a very wet bottom! Just behind us a German couple got stuck in the sand in their vehicle. After much our effort our team managed to get them out. You have to let the air out of your tires and rev the engine in a high gear. Getting stuck out here in sand is not a good idea.
On the drive back, we came across some salt pans, but they were bright pink. The pans contain an algae that secretes a kind of natural dye. The pink water against the white salt and the blue sky looked amazing.
As we drove back to our lodge the fog closed in again as we decided not to quad bike here but to wait until we reach our next destination, Dessert Homestead where they also do horse riding in the dunes.
The kayaking had been great fun but exhausting. So we had a wee rest in our huge bed which we have named Bear, as it has a giant bear like fur top to it which is great to snuggle down into.
We then went into town for a coffee and a wander. We came across a few good shops where we purchased our African memento, a ceramic leopard called Lucy. We then walked back to The Stilts via the sea front where we picked up some lovely smooth pebbles for our earth collection. On the way back we stopped to watch a lone surfer, kite surfing in the strong winds.
After our rest, we showered and dressed in readiness for tonight’s restaurant at The Tug. As we sat in our hut, the sun began to set and wow, what a sun set. We have seen so many wonderful sunsets this year but this one was amazing. After the sun fell into the sea, we jumped into Winston and drove to the tug. However, when we reached The Tug the sunset was even more dramatic but we had left our camera’s at home. It looked as if someone had slapped some bright orange and pink sandy paint onto the sky. The edges looked like neon white paint.
We had the best table in the house, over looking the lapping waves. A great meal was had. A bottle of Brut bubbles in a top restaurant here is only £8.
Tim and Freda joined us later in The Tug. Luckily, they had stopped to photograph the whole sunset, so they will email them when they get back to the UK.
Africa – 23rd Sept 2008 – Day 22
We had a lay in today, 7.30am. After our breakfast, we paid the bill, dais our goodbye’s and hit the road. On our way out of camp, we stopped to take a wee boy to the local hospital. He was at the camp gate and worked at the lodge. He had problems with his eyes. We took him right to the front gates of the hospital. Our good deed for the day!!
Our drive to Swakopmund took us though rapid changes in both scenery and weather. After only one and a half hours on the road, the landscape began to flatten out and we could make out a cloud bank on the horizon. Later we took the C1991 dirt track which took us through an amazing moonscape. As we drove further, the land flattened and quickly turned to sand. We had hit the desert. Suddenly we came across the sand dunes. As we drove on they became larger and larger. As we came closer they looked more and more unreal. The look as smooth as plastic sheeting with many colours. As we drive down the road we saw cars coming directly at us on the wrong side of the road. We had to get off the road and let an enormous convoy pass by, carrying the largest dumper truck you can imagine. They mine a lot of minerals here, no doubt these mega trucks are used at the mine. Just as well we have a 4x4.
As we arrived in Swakopmund, Africa turned into a cross between a small German and American town. It is a strange place, with many German speaking chops and bars but with the locals still doing the poorly paying jobs. If feels like stepping back in time, like an aging seaside town with modern estates. It just doesn’t feel like Africa at all.
We found our next lodge, The Stilts, checked in and then went into town to check out restaurants for tonight. We had a tea and coffee, visited the local supermarket for toothpaste and then browsed some shops. Fiona eventually bought a couple of T-shirts.
We chilled out in our beach front villa (standing on high stilts – hence the name). Being on the coast has it’s draw backs. IT is too chilly and windy to sit on the balcony, Luckily our villa has big picture windows from which to look a the Atlantic waves crashing on the beach.
John has now managed to burn his nipples (can’t work out when) so is in some discomfort. His back is also still playing up but it is not as bad as it was. Namibia is a great place, but it can bite back!
In the evening we went to the sea food restaurant Der Kinder in town. Here you have to be back before 10pm and pay men to look after your car while it is parked up in town. It seems like standard behavior to the locals.
We arrived bang on 7pm for our meal at Der Kinder. We were only the second clients in the place. John had only paid the car minder 2 dollars on the way in and he did not look impressed. The lady serving us said we should pay 5, so John popped out and gave him another 3. He looked happy!
The wine in Namibian restaurants is very good value. About £1 for a large glass. We had a glass each and ordered our grub. John had baby octopus in a peri peri sauce followed by a delicious fish stew with rice. Fiona had deep fried camembert followed by he catch of the day. Also vey nice indeed.
Once back at the lodge, John managed to get a good phone signal, so phoned home to see how his Dad was doing. They had flushed both his arm and his hand out during some key hole surgery, but had not found anything conclusive which can explain the terrible pain he has now been in for five weeks. John’s Mum said that he was feeling more comfortable now. Rhidian (Johns second cousin who is also a surgeon) had spoken to Johns Fathers surgeon who had admitted that diagnosing the problem is proving problematic.
We hit the sack nice and early ready for an early morning alarm call.
Our drive to Swakopmund took us though rapid changes in both scenery and weather. After only one and a half hours on the road, the landscape began to flatten out and we could make out a cloud bank on the horizon. Later we took the C1991 dirt track which took us through an amazing moonscape. As we drove further, the land flattened and quickly turned to sand. We had hit the desert. Suddenly we came across the sand dunes. As we drove on they became larger and larger. As we came closer they looked more and more unreal. The look as smooth as plastic sheeting with many colours. As we drive down the road we saw cars coming directly at us on the wrong side of the road. We had to get off the road and let an enormous convoy pass by, carrying the largest dumper truck you can imagine. They mine a lot of minerals here, no doubt these mega trucks are used at the mine. Just as well we have a 4x4.
As we arrived in Swakopmund, Africa turned into a cross between a small German and American town. It is a strange place, with many German speaking chops and bars but with the locals still doing the poorly paying jobs. If feels like stepping back in time, like an aging seaside town with modern estates. It just doesn’t feel like Africa at all.
We found our next lodge, The Stilts, checked in and then went into town to check out restaurants for tonight. We had a tea and coffee, visited the local supermarket for toothpaste and then browsed some shops. Fiona eventually bought a couple of T-shirts.
We chilled out in our beach front villa (standing on high stilts – hence the name). Being on the coast has it’s draw backs. IT is too chilly and windy to sit on the balcony, Luckily our villa has big picture windows from which to look a the Atlantic waves crashing on the beach.
John has now managed to burn his nipples (can’t work out when) so is in some discomfort. His back is also still playing up but it is not as bad as it was. Namibia is a great place, but it can bite back!
In the evening we went to the sea food restaurant Der Kinder in town. Here you have to be back before 10pm and pay men to look after your car while it is parked up in town. It seems like standard behavior to the locals.
We arrived bang on 7pm for our meal at Der Kinder. We were only the second clients in the place. John had only paid the car minder 2 dollars on the way in and he did not look impressed. The lady serving us said we should pay 5, so John popped out and gave him another 3. He looked happy!
The wine in Namibian restaurants is very good value. About £1 for a large glass. We had a glass each and ordered our grub. John had baby octopus in a peri peri sauce followed by a delicious fish stew with rice. Fiona had deep fried camembert followed by he catch of the day. Also vey nice indeed.
Once back at the lodge, John managed to get a good phone signal, so phoned home to see how his Dad was doing. They had flushed both his arm and his hand out during some key hole surgery, but had not found anything conclusive which can explain the terrible pain he has now been in for five weeks. John’s Mum said that he was feeling more comfortable now. Rhidian (Johns second cousin who is also a surgeon) had spoken to Johns Fathers surgeon who had admitted that diagnosing the problem is proving problematic.
We hit the sack nice and early ready for an early morning alarm call.
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